|
|
|
|
|
Welcome to Saab92x.com!
|
|
|
|
Tried to download a manual, but doesn't look like any links work. This car (05 linear mt) sat for a year plus, after I my mother in law drive it for a year or so. I'm giving it to someone else, so I just did all the brakes and rotors, and had a shop do both rear wheel bearings. Got it back from them with ABS light on. Took it back, and they have zero idea what to do about it... or willingness. They were nice enough to give me the codes from the ABS system. I'm putting it back up now to re bleed and have a look at the sensors. Codes are:
26 (rr abs sensor)
29 (??)
42 (voltage failure)
Notes are the shop's.
Offline
Offline
I had my ABS light come on after replacing my axle seal. My guess is some banging around or something breaks wires internal to the sensor.
I didn't pull the codes but did try to check the resistance of the sensor and it was "open". Bought a new sensor off e-bay and that did the trick.
It was the front so I think it was a bit easier to access... Doesn't seem like the e-bay seller I used has one listed right now. The price can range a lot...
For reference this is what I bought (but I have an Aero).
2002-2005 SUBARU IMPREZA WRX FRONT DRIVER LEFT ABS WHEEL SPEED SENSOR M2536
Vendor link - https://www.ebay.com/usr/dresperformance?ul_noapp=true
You can also try pulling the sensor and clean it along with the hub ring with some brake cleaner (maybe). But if you can check the resistance of the sensor it should be 1,000 to 2,500 ohms. You'll have to find the connection. On the front they are a bit hard to reach but just inside the fenders in the engine bay.
Offline
Well... I don't want to jinx anything... but after fiddling with fuses, disconnecting the module connector and blasting it with cleaner... the light is gone. Can it be that simple? Ever??
Offline
Yeah, should have known... As soon as I pulled out to wheel it around the block, light is back.
Offline
My guess is that the shop that did the rear wheel bearing (a HUGE PITA, BTW) damaged the speed sensor on the right rear corner. Or, perhaps - they simply neglected to reconnect it.
Hopefully they didn't damage the tone ring on the axle - that would suck to have to pull it all apart again to replace the axle... 
Offline
Yes, I put it up on the stands and took the wheels off last night, then lost the gumption to stick my face under there at the time. So the rotors have to come off to really check these parts? I'll get back at it tonight.
Offline
https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/subaru … placement/
Tw website is annoying but the information is spot on. Yes, it's for an Outback, but the Impreza is basically the same.
I've got $5 on 'shop sheared the end off the sensor'. You might be able to pull the sensor out and inspect it without fully disassembling the hub.
Last edited by krazykarguy (2021-08-16 13:44:50)
Offline
So, a question... this part says it fits 2002-2007 Impreza, for $50;
HOLSTEIN 2ABS1112 ABS Wheel Speed Sensor
But this isn't a part for 92x linear according to rock auto, which has the cheapest part at $151. The parts world is toying with my emotions right now.
Offline
Getting somewhere now, pulled the RR sensor after a bit of finagling, and it looks like this:
https://imgur.com/gmmZfHv
Looking at the backside of the sensor, it looks like this:
https://imgur.com/WsQfIwD
Looks like maybe the guy putting the bearing in that side used a torch maybe, ended up roasting the sensor?
The other sensor is pretty well frozen into its spot, think I'll bang that one out and replace both of them with these $50 sensors and see what happens. These leads up up through the body under the back bench seat, yes?
Offline
The end of the sensor appears to be ground down at an angle, right?
If you wanted to do both, I can't see a reason why not - especially since the rear bearings were done on both sides.
Offline
I didn't take note of an angle to the wear, but there sure are a lot more metal filings stuck to it than I thought there'd be.
Offline
Oh, and to answer your other question - the sensor does go into the passenger compartment. Might be an excellent opportunity to inspect your rear strut towers for the rust issues...
Offline
I'm a glutton for punishment, going to go ahead and do the ball joints and tie rod ends while I've got it up. Wish me luck on those pinch bolts...
Offline
Better be ready with a grade 8 3/8" bolt and a lock nut, and all your drill bits. The pinch bolt is going to break.
Do you have a ball joint extractor? Because you're going to need that too, even after getting out breaking the pinch bolt.
Offline
I have a pickle fork, does that count?
Offline
Nope. You'll need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic- … B01JBJFK3C
A pickle fork will get the lower control arm separated from the knuckle at the ball joint.
The puller gets the ball joint out of the knuckle.
Offline
Holy hell that looks gruesome. On top of the bolt drilling.
Offline
Yeah, it's not fun. 
Offline
Well damn. Replaced both rear sensors, still have the light. This is getting old.
Offline
Have you reset the car's ECUs?
Disconnect (-) battery terminal
Step on brake pedal for 5 seconds
Wait 1-2 hours
Reconnect battery
Also, here is the entire Subaru ABS troubleshooting guide that I found:
https://subaruport.ru/for3/for3_chas_8.pdf
Last edited by krazykarguy (2021-08-23 08:37:36)
Offline
I disconnected the ABS module, and the battery, last night. That should be enough, right? I did manage to find a somewhat local subie specialist, up in Cleveland. You know for all the damn Scoobs on the road around here you'd think there'd be more shops.
How damn TIGHT do you need to set the park brake shoes before it will actually stop anything? I've got the cable adjuster as tight as it will go, and what I THINK is a tight fit on these rotors... and, it will still let the car creep down the driveway.
Thanks krazykarguy, for all your help here. I'd certainly buy you a beer if you were... in my garage fixing my damn car. 
Offline
Disconnecting the battery overnight should be sufficient to reset the module.
There are two different places that need to be adjusted on the parking brake. First, you need to take all of the cable tension off at the handle - back the nut off until you can see and feel slack in the cable. The primary parking brake adjustment is the adjuster star wheel in the brake drum/hub. You want to adjust these out as far as possible (once the rotor is installed) and then back it off 2-3 clicks. You should still be able to hear the parking brake shoes dragging slightly at this stage when the wheel is rotated. Reinstall the wheels, and then go back into the cabin and tighten up the nut behind the parking brake handle.
As far as the ABS light issue goes, the codes are listed on page 111, along with a note for the subsequent testing procedure. At this point, if you're comfortable with using a multimeter, you might want to check for voltage at the sensor, you may have a broke wire further up in the harness.
Always happy to help a member who has been on the forum for as long as you have (joined 13 days after me), even if your post count is nowhere near as prolific as mine... 
Offline
Lol, yes... after all these years I've decided to become an active member of this community!
Offline
Updates. TBH, I don't know what the hell I'm doing with a multimeter. However, I have one... and its smarter than me. I have readings around 1300 on the rears, where I've been chasing problems. I left that battery disconnected for 2 days, and the ABS light is on from ignition. Which is different than than the last time, where it was off and didn't come back till I drove the car. Anyway, I've got OL on front driver, and 600ish on from passenger. So that isn't right. I'll replace those two before I shop it. The connectors on fronts are different...
Offline
So no joy here. Still have ABS light. Wondering if I should just replace the entire pump/module at this point.
Offline
|
|
Site problems, bugs, or questions? Contact Administrator
All content copyright Saab92x.com 2005-2010
SAAB and the SAAB logos are trademarks of Saab Cars USA, Inc.
Your Privacy Choices