If home diagnosing, do an intake boost leak pressure test, or the flameless propane torch vacuum leak test.  Generally a garage with an emissions sniffer can find the potential leaks faster.

Scargo wrote:

how could a highway stall "do in" the car? That's no different than completely lifting off the throttle at highway speed (fuel injector dwell = 0).  Something else had to have gone wrong.

he was going through a construction area and there was a turn, the car cut off right as he was about to go through the turn and the lost power and smashed into the wall!

kornfeld wrote:

Does it happen right after you pull the battery or do something to reset the ecu?

It's never happened to me, but I know a few guys with impreza's that after working on their car with no battery, they have to do the ECU re-learning thing.
I'm trying to find the link, but it's basically, after you plug the battery back in, start the car, no throttle at all, and you let it idle for like 20-30 minutes. Some randomness.
I think it's "learning" the ECU. Otherwise, the exact issue you are describing happens to them. One of the guys, it will basically happen every single time he is coming to a stop, clutch in, idle goes too low and the car stalls.

Here it is. Just an over the top explanation on resetting the ECU.

with the engine stone COLD

and make sure ALL ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS ARE TURNED OFF.....NO RADIO...NO BLOWER...NO LIGHTS....NO AC NO NOTHING IS ON

disconnect the battery.....leave it off for 10 minutes and pump the brake pedal a few times
reconnect the battery...make sure the terminals are CLEAN and tight

DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE PEDAL AT ALL

get in car

DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE PEDAL AT ALL

turn the key to the last position before the starter engages and WAIT 10 seconds

DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE PEDAL AT ALL

turn the key to start the car

DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE PEDAL AT ALL

leave the car to run until the radiator fans come on.......this may take 20-25 minutes

DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE PEDAL AT ALL

turn the engine OFF and take the key OUT of the ignition switch and wait at least 10 seconds

put the key back in the ignition and start the car and drive normally for a bit and see what happens

Source:http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr … st34573159

awesome. ill try that tomorrow. im running a cobb intake btw!

You can raise your idle with the AP if you have one.

trunkm0nk3y wrote:

so i did the reset the other day. the next day it stalled again. I think that its bc the RPM's are dropping too low. It seems to only do it when the car is cold. I hope that the tuner can take car of that.

I had this happening in my sr20 powered 240sx. The BOV was set to atmospheric and not resurc causing a drop in RPMS when slowing down or depressing the clutch. The car couldn't compensate for the loss of air and would idle down and shut off unless I tapped the gas slightly to keep it up.

Never a problem at WOT just when coming to a stop while not in gear. Not sure if this is what you are experiencing but it sounds similar. Hope it helps.

oh and BTW...its making 310hp to the wheels!  Im happy with that.

So some major suspension work/ maintenance is in the works! I can't wait until its done.

I'm ditching the 160k+ stock struts for a set of 04 STi pink struts. I am going to rebuild them and mate up my original blue Cobb lowering springs to them.


I am also getting some nice adjustable lateral links and trailing arms to dial in the rear some more and I am going to be tackling the wheel bearings for all 4 corners! FUN

yeah i threw the LR one away! The install went really well, well up until the last one where we couldnt remember if we installed the washer between the spring retainer and tophat. Had to take it all apart (which only took 5 mins) and check, which it was there. My buddy was tightening a bolt on the top hat and broke a stud off. So he has to replace one! lol! But other than that it went really well. Took about 2 hours!

Why are you replacing wheel bearings? Sounds like lots of work without benefit...

krakarguy...they are going out. You dont do wheel bearings as an upgrade, more as maintenance thing that needs to eventually be done!

Skorpion...my lat links are newer wrx ones that i put floflex poly bushings in and zerks to grease but i want more adjustability so im getting some new ones. The ones I have on now will probably be up for same soon!