![]() |
|
|
Welcome to Saab92x.com!
|
|
|
I didn't use the wire from Hella. I only took the relay off. Then get 4 wires and splice and tap them according to instruction. I will check the connection again next time b/c my gf is driving out of town tomorrow in the morning.
one thing i want to make sure is that the location of pin 6 of the DRL module. with the DRL module harness unplug, is it located at the furthest? there's only one solid green wire and it's at one of the conner harness location. Am I tapping the right pin?
Offline
Offline
Looking at the DRL connector from the back (side where wires go into the connector), this is what you should see:
____________
/ \
l 5 l 4 l 3 l 2 l 1 l
l l
l 10l 9 l 8 l 7 l 6 l
l-----------------l
Where:
1 = +12V when Ignition is ON. = Green with Black Stripe
2 = +12V when Generator is ON = Black with White Stripe
3 = empty
4 = +12V when Starter is ON = Yellow
5 = Connected to Headlight Relay = Green
6 = Parking Brake Inhibit = Light Green
7 = empty
8 = Transmission Inhibit (Auto Trans Only) = Green with Red Stripe
9 = empty
10 = Ground = Black
A picture of this is shown in the Scoobymods post I have in the document (http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2353). I've liked to the picture in that post, but note it's for a manual transmission car so pin 8 is also empty (pin 8 is the one he has circled in red). Pin 6 would be the one on bottom right of the connector.
I hope this helps. You should also refer to the Wiring section of the Impreza Service Manual on this forum for more details.
Last edited by jcinxtc5 (2006-05-20 23:48:14)
Offline
after looked at the pic from scoobymods.com, I think I probably connected terminal 30 of the relay to pin 5. I guess pin 5 is connected to the ground terminal of the headlight relay, causing the DRL off at all time.
Offline
jcinxtc5 - I've just purchased an '06 2.5L 9-2x with only the cold weather package. Are those production or aftermarket fog lamps you are using? If aftermarket, what kind and how easy were they to install. I looked into the grates on my 9-2X and it appeared that a wiring harness was already in place. Is this the case?
Offline
djamie wrote:
jcinxtc5 - I've just purchased an '06 2.5L 9-2x with only the cold weather package. Are those production or aftermarket fog lamps you are using? If aftermarket, what kind and how easy were they to install. I looked into the grates on my 9-2X and it appeared that a wiring harness was already in place. Is this the case?
Djamie:
I installed aftermarket fogs: Hella Micro DEs. I documented the procedure here: https://www.saab92x.com/viewtopic.php?id=5524
They were very easy to install. All the factory wiring was already in place in the car. I purchased the factory fog light switch and relay from Subaru (about $35 for the switch and $12 for the relay). The switch harness was right there in the dash, and I popped the relay in the block for a clean interior installation - it's all documented in the pdf.
The wiring for the foglamps are also already in the car. I just spliced the aftermarked plugs on the existing wiring and then plugged it onto the fogs.
This is the fog kit I bought: http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPo … cro_DE.jsp
And this is where I got them: http://www.autoaccessconnect.com/hemidefoglak.html
Offline
Are the '06 Subaru fog lamps the same as the 9-2x Aeros? If so, may cost more than the Hella's, but might shave some time off installation ? Found a site that had them for $116/pc
Offline
djamie wrote:
Are the '06 Subaru fog lamps the same as the 9-2x Aeros? If so, may cost more than the Hella's, but might shave some time off installation ? Found a site that had them for $116/pc
I'm not sure, but the Saab bumper is different than the Subie and the plastic area behind the bumper may also be different which will affect how you mount them. You'll need to measure the Subie fogs to make sure they fit. If I remember correctly, the diameter needs to be no more than 3 inches and the Saab opening is flat on the top so a litte smaller is better. And the length from the recessed opening to the back of the cavity is limited to about 4.5 inches.
Offline
So, if i wanted to get rid of the DRLs completely, I can just unplug the connector?
I would do the rest, but something about cutting up wiring in a new car doesn't sit well with me [yet ]...
Offline
For the original post on the fog light mod
Pls dont mind my dummy Q
im not electrically smart
I see you cut the RG line from the fog switch at two places to isolate the RG from the High Beam and then splice the V line from the fog switch
Why not ? disconnect the RG line from the high beam relay and connect it to the V line of the fog switch hence no cutting and easy revert back
Providing it is in the same vicinity otherwise an extension wire
Last edited by goixiz (2009-03-17 11:41:11)
Offline
goixiz wrote:
For the original post on the fog light mod
Pls dont mind my dummy Q
im not electrically smart
I see you cut the RG line from the fog switch at two places to isolate the RG from the High Beam and then splice the V line from the fog switch
Why not ? disconnect the RG line from the high beam relay and connect it to the V line of the fog switch hence no cutting and easy revert back
Providing it is in the same vicinity otherwise an extension wire
It's been a while since I looked at this, but looking over the schematics the RG line at the High Beam Relay is the actual On/Off input for your high beams - that part is not shown in the Fog diagram I copied. If you unplugged that line then your high beams would be inoperable so the solution was to isolate the fog circuit all together. From the diagram it would appear that one cut between the fog circuit at the RG High Beam line would be enough, so your question is valid as to why I made 2 cuts at either end (switch and fog relay). The simple answer is the splice from the high beam circuit into the fog circuit is somewhere in the wiring harness and difficult to find, whereas the connector end of the fog relay is close to the fog switch connector which makes the wiring connection easy. It is also easily reversible because the unused wiring ends are still close to their original connections.
One other connection that I've been too lazy to do (but it's so easy) is to cut the YL (5) on the fog light switch and connect it to ground. That would allow the fogs to stay on with the high beams, although I believe that's not DOT compliant if anyone were to get picky.
Offline
im lost here
i want the easy way out
if this works thats the way ill go
"cut the YL (5) on the fog light switch and connect it to ground. That would allow the fogs to stay on with the high beams"
^^^^ i dont care if its DOT BOT or HOT
When i cut the YL / 5 line - i will end up with 2 wires - WHICH DO I CONNECT TO GROUND and and what do i do with the other end ?>
will the fog still switch of when i turn the ignition off ?
Last edited by goixiz (2009-03-17 13:23:09)
Offline
goixiz wrote:
im lost here
i want the easy way out
if this works thats the way ill go
"cut the YL (5) on the fog light switch and connect it to ground. That would allow the fogs to stay on with the high beams"
^^^^ i dont care if its DOT BOT or HOT
When i cut the YL / 5 line - i will end up with 2 wires - WHICH DO I CONNECT TO GROUND and and what do i do with the other end ?>
will the fog still switch of when i turn the ignition off ?
You would connect the YL/5 wire coming out of the fog light switch to ground and leave the other end alone (tape it off). If you look at that wire currently, at the bottom of the circuit it goes through the headlight dimmer switch which only connects the circuit to ground when the headlight dimmer switch is in the non-high beam position. If you pull the stalk to pass (flash highs) or set it to high beams, the circuit becomes open (not grounded) so no current flows through the fog relay and the fogs turn off. By connecting YL out of the switch to ground it permanently bypasses the function of the dimmer switch and allows the fogs to remain on.
This won't affect the ignition interaction with the fogs and they will still turn off when the ignition is off. Power to the fog circuit comes through the normal fused feeds which are switched with the ignition.
Offline
jcinxtc5 wrote:
goixiz wrote:
im lost here
i want the easy way out
if this works thats the way ill go
"cut the YL (5) on the fog light switch and connect it to ground. That would allow the fogs to stay on with the high beams"
^^^^ i dont care if its DOT BOT or HOT
When i cut the YL / 5 line - i will end up with 2 wires - WHICH DO I CONNECT TO GROUND and and what do i do with the other end ?>
will the fog still switch of when i turn the ignition off ?You would connect the YL/5 wire coming out of the fog light switch to ground and leave the other end alone (tape it off). If you look at that wire currently, at the bottom of the circuit it goes through the headlight dimmer switch which only connects the circuit to ground when the headlight dimmer switch is in the non-high beam position. If you pull the stalk to pass (flash highs) or set it to high beams, the circuit becomes open (not grounded) so no current flows through the fog relay and the fogs turn off. By connecting YL out of the switch to ground it permanently bypasses the function of the dimmer switch and allows the fogs to remain on.
This won't affect the ignition interaction with the fogs and they will still turn off when the ignition is off. Power to the fog circuit comes through the normal fused feeds which are switched with the ignition.
Great thats what Ill do
Just to confirm
My fogs are still on / functional when only my driving lights are on (not headlights low beam)
or do i still have to do the 2 cuts and 1 splice
Offline
goixiz wrote:
jcinxtc5 wrote:
goixiz wrote:
im lost here
i want the easy way out
if this works thats the way ill go
"cut the YL (5) on the fog light switch and connect it to ground. That would allow the fogs to stay on with the high beams"
^^^^ i dont care if its DOT BOT or HOT
When i cut the YL / 5 line - i will end up with 2 wires - WHICH DO I CONNECT TO GROUND and and what do i do with the other end ?>
will the fog still switch of when i turn the ignition off ?You would connect the YL/5 wire coming out of the fog light switch to ground and leave the other end alone (tape it off). If you look at that wire currently, at the bottom of the circuit it goes through the headlight dimmer switch which only connects the circuit to ground when the headlight dimmer switch is in the non-high beam position. If you pull the stalk to pass (flash highs) or set it to high beams, the circuit becomes open (not grounded) so no current flows through the fog relay and the fogs turn off. By connecting YL out of the switch to ground it permanently bypasses the function of the dimmer switch and allows the fogs to remain on.
This won't affect the ignition interaction with the fogs and they will still turn off when the ignition is off. Power to the fog circuit comes through the normal fused feeds which are switched with the ignition.Great thats what Ill do
Just to confirm
My fogs are still on / functional when only my driving lights are on (not headlights low beam)
or do i still have to do the 2 cuts and 1 splice
The YL change has nothing to do with the prior mod that allows fogs to come on with parking lights - it will only allow them to stay on with your high beams. If you only do this mod, the fogs will only come on when your low beams are on.
To make the fogs come on with parking lights you have to follow the initial writeup which includes turning DRLs off when parking lights are on. Otherwise there's no real reason to do it.
Offline
This guide seems to be the best I can find and it looks awesome.
I just have two questions..
1. Drls?? What is that
2. Does the illumination on the fog button still work? Or do I have to remember the whole time if the fogs are on or not?
Offline
Tribbe wrote:
This guide seems to be the best I can find and it looks awesome.
I just have two questions..
1. Drls?? What is that
2. Does the illumination on the fog button still work? Or do I have to remember the whole time if the fogs are on or not?
1.) "DRL" is daytime running lights. These are only equipped on 2005 92x cars with halogen (non-HID) headlights.
2.) The illumination on the fog light button will still work just fine.
Offline
Then I guess I have drls... why disable them?
I need to print this guide and try it out.
Offline
You disable them because you're sick and tired of replacing headlight bulbs and/or you want to be able to sneak around at night without your lights on all the time.
Offline
What about OFF?
The drl lights is that what I call low beam lights?
Offline
If you turn the headlights off with the switch on the steering column, but you still have lights on in the front at reduced power, you have DRLs.
DRL operation:
switch off - low beams on reduced power, taillights off
switch on - low beams, normal power, taillights on
high beams - high beams is high beams either way
I disabled my DRLs when I converted to (cheap Chinese, boxed like they were Japanese) HIDs. The reduced voltage makes the HIDs flicker on and off.
Offline
Okay. Have to try that. I thought that off was completely off.
Offline
krazykarguy wrote:
You disable them because you're sick and tired of replacing headlight bulbs and/or you want to be able to sneak around at night without your lights on all the time.
My e-brake is super loose and pulling it one tooth turns my DRLs off without engaging the brake. I might consider doing this guide though. I would love to have a switch kill all the lights, even brake lights. I got a bad scare once and was pursued by crazy black guys in a Acura EL. Luckily the linear is 100000x faster.
Offline
Tribbe wrote:
Okay. Have to try that. I thought that off was completely off.
Off might be completely off on your car. I'm not sure if they all came with DRLs, or if it depended on the market.
Offline
Off was completely off on my car.
Will test the fog light mod before the summer begins.
Offline
Tribbe wrote:
Off was completely off on my car.
Will test the fog light mod before the summer begins.
someone must have done that mod before you shipped the car to you. maybe the mid-Atlantic trolls took a vacation on the freighter? i thought that Sweden required DRLs, no?
Offline
|