Switching to Rotella synth in both the Linear and the Ninja- believe it or not, they use the same oil filter, too. (I use Pure-one)
Anybody want to chime in on extending the NA oil change interval with synthetic?

i used Q horsepower on my previous change and liked it, but got a good deal for pennzoil platinum so it's in now

I used to have problems with consumption or loss with Mobil 1.  It's definitely better with Valvoline Syn.

ditto, just put it in my jeep liberty too.  i had extended performance M1 stuff in it and hadn't check in about 1 year.  it was down to about a quart

eurospek wrote:

Amsoil ASL 5w-30

Last edited by aasst15 (2009-05-13 22:20:56)

JimboUS wrote:

German Castrol 0W-30.
It gives great used engine oil analysis results.

http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr … Post718643

No one here is using this stuff?

I plan on switching over to it on my newly aquired 05 aero.  Either that or amsoil.

No, European Formula Full Synthetic Motor Oil is not German Castrol.  You need to look at the label and find if it says "Made in Germany" on it.  Can't find the stuff around here, when I've attempted to order it all the labels said "Made in the USA" on them.

Q Horsepower 5w 30 and a K&N oil filter.  So far so good

Still using Amsoil ASL 5w-30 Synthetic oil (about 10K miles now)  and the old jdm 'black' OEM filters. Check my oil regularly and everything is fine (knocks on wood). I will continue using it for at least 15K more miles as I'm getting 2 cases (12 qts. each) on Saturday from my local Amsoil dealer, I'm slowly building up a stock of car + maintenance parts at the new house. 

HatchSPEED wrote:

Anyone seen any uoa's on it?

There's one on NASIOC.  The consensus there and on BITOG seems to be that the gold stuff is the same as the green stuff - it was just a change of the label.  Take that with a grain of salt...

On the topic of running German Castrol 0W-30, can anybody think of a reason not to use it in high heat in the summer?

I'm using Mobile 1 primarily because that's what my garage uses. I had used Amsoil for one oilchange but then I just couldn't find the stuff locally then I found out that my local shop would do the oil change for me for 41 bucks full synthetic (I do supply my own OEM filters and crush washers) Honestly it doesn't cost me much less to do it my self and I don't have to spend an afternoon getting grungy and screwing with it. Plus I get to maintain a relationship with a good competent mechanic/shop.

Course part of that is it's hard to find a good mechanic that isn't in the business of screwing with people plus these guys are perfectly willing to install parts I supply with no complaints which is a damned rare when it comes to a comercial garage and I like doing my part to help them stay in business so they are around if one of my other cars blow up.

As far as the oil itself goes I haven't had any problems with the Mobile 1. I don't check it as often as I should since the first time through admittedly but I also try to keep my change interval between 3k-3.5k (oil is cheap engines not so much).

Another side benefit of having someone else do it is that I don't have to figure out what to do with the old oil afterwards.

Here is some information on oil filters that I found some time ago (the colors may be different):

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

For the Naturally Aspirated H4 Motor, the 2.5L FI motor on the Linear, here are the part numbers:

The Subaru OEM part # is 15208AA060
(For the Turbo it is part # 15208AA080 old part # black, and 15208AA100 newer part # black, and 15208AA09A newest part# WHITE).
I understand that the OEM filters are identical to the Purolator Premium Plus listed below.

The Purolator Pure One part # is PL 14460 (larger filter).
This filter works great!  The By-Pass filter valve has the same specs (Relief Valve P.S.I. 20-25) as the original Subaru filter.
The larger filter's filtering area inside is 141 square inches.

The Purolator Pure One part # is PL 14612 (smaller filter, blue).
This filter also works great!  The By-Pass filter valve has lower specs (Relief Valve P.S.I. 14-18) than the original Subaru filter.
I don't know the filtering area size but my guess is less than the above filter at probably less than 90 sq in.  Capacity will be less too.

The smaller filter is pretty small.  Curiously, in the Purolator book it is the listed filter for the Subaru 3 cyl Justy.
These are very high quality filters.

The Purolator Premium Plus PART #s are L14460 (large filter white) and L14612 (small filter).
These are  medium quality oil filters.

The ProLine oil filters at PepBoys have part #s of PPL 14460 and PPL 14612.  They appear to be identical to the Purolator Premium Plus line.

The Mobil 1 M-104 is for the H4 NA, non Turbo motor, and the M-108 for the turbo motor.

The Valvoline Max-Life oil filter VF3593A is listed to fit both Linear and Aero.  It has more filtering capability and it is a bit heavier.
It is made by Purolator.

The PUROLATOR PURE ONE OIL FILTER PL14459 is made for the H6 motor, 6 cyl, but it appears to be the same as the PL14460 except that it has a larger filtering area inside, 201 sq-in vs 141 sq-in.

By the way, if you go to PepBoys and you ask for an oil change for the Linear, the correct oil filter in their database is the Purolator PureOne PL 14612.
I did not ask if the same oil filter pops up for the Turbo.  But, I think, it will.

According to Purolator's website, http://www.pureoil.com both the PureOne line and the Premium Plus line have Combination Anti-Drain and By-Pass Valves that assure adequate oil flow on startup and continued flow when the filter becomes saturated with contaminants. 
The PureOne has far better construction though.
But you should never leave an oil filter to the point where the by-pass valve activates.  It should be changed way before.
The rest of the oil filters above probably have Combination Anti-Drain and By-Pass Valves also.

This is a good site to learn more about oil filters and their construction:

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilte … study.html

And another one:

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterStudy.html

The pure one filter seems the best.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Last edited by JimboUS (2009-06-12 11:32:10)

If I owned a turbo'd Subaru vehicle, I would run:

Factory Subaru oil filter
Wal Mart Synthetic oil in 10w30 form
Factory Subaru crush gasket washer for the oil pan plug

But, I don't drive a turbo'd Subaru vehicle and I don't shop at Wal Mart. 

But srsly, no kidding on that walmart synthetic, it's supposed to be pretty decent stuff. 

If you're n/a, then you're wasting money running synth unless it's really really cold where you live or want to do extended changes.  I don't like extended changes though, because I don't think the filter can last as long, imho. 

A good dino is Chevron, Havoline, or if you want to pay a little more (for the marketing) Valvoline.

just checked the oil level, and since switching to castrol syntec 5w-30 my oil consumption is hardly noticeable... mobil 1 5w-30 was substantial...


this is not a universal thing necessarily... just what it is on my linear...