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Aero - Full Syn | 65% - 93 | |||||
Aero - Semi Syn | 8% - 12 | |||||
Aero - Dino | 5% - 8 | |||||
Linear - Full Syn | 12% - 18 | |||||
Linear - Semi Syn | 2% - 4 | |||||
Linear - Dino | 5% - 8 | |||||
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Running Amsoil 0w-30 in the motor and Amsoil Severe gear 75w90 in the 5MT and Rear Diff. Transmission is MUCH smoother now, with absolutely zero grinding issues.
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Anand wrote:
German Castrol 0w30. This car seems to love the stuff.
+1
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I recently switched from Mobil 1 to Pennzoil Platinum. My car uses less oil than with the Mobil 1, and it costs a bit less as well. But I second those thoughts on cold weather starts and full synth. I used Mobil 1 0W40 last winter and was happy, except for the oil consumption, which was about a quart in 3K miles. It's less than 1/2 that with the PZP now.
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Titan wrote:
The reason NOT to spend a lot of money on oil, is that MANY relative cheap mineral oils run in MANY vehicles for 250,000+ miles with no problems. I'm not saying some oils aren't better than others...they are. BUT, usually, the car falls apart before the engine does. Using Walmart oil (as long as it is the correct grade and viscosity) and changing it when it should be changed, your engine can last longer than you'd EVER keep the car, with no oil-related problems.
ALL THAT SAID, I use Pennzoil Platinum on sale, because it is better than Walmart oil...at least, according to Used Oil Analysis...at only 2.08 per quart, it's a very good deal.
I can trace back many a cam chain tensioner lost to Amsoil or Redline. That shit needs to stay in dirt bikes. Now you’re not completely wrong, I know you weren’t advocating those I listed, but there are wrong oils. Always stick with dealer or factory recommendations unless your dyno tuner suggested otherwise due to your specific build.
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Elizx wrote:
Titan wrote:
The reason NOT to spend a lot of money on oil, is that MANY relative cheap mineral oils run in MANY vehicles for 250,000+ miles with no problems. I'm not saying some oils aren't better than others...they are. BUT, usually, the car falls apart before the engine does. Using Walmart oil (as long as it is the correct grade and viscosity) and changing it when it should be changed, your engine can last longer than you'd EVER keep the car, with no oil-related problems.
ALL THAT SAID, I use Pennzoil Platinum on sale, because it is better than Walmart oil...at least, according to Used Oil Analysis...at only 2.08 per quart, it's a very good deal.I can trace back many a cam chain tensioner lost to Amsoil or Redline. That shit needs to stay in dirt bikes. Now you’re not completely wrong, I know you weren’t advocating those I listed, but there are wrong oils. Always stick with dealer or factory recommendations unless your dyno tuner suggested otherwise due to your specific build.
I don't think Titan will see your response. He hasn't posted here in over ten years.
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Still fun to just pick all options for a poll
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itsnotmeitsyou wrote:
Still fun to just pick all options for a poll
I use Rotella 5/40 on a stock 2.0 but would be open to something else if its proven better?
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Supposedly, the new Rotella formulation is not good for our motors, when it warms up I’m going to start using Castrol or Mobil 0w40. Now that is cold I’m using Castrol syn blend 5w30 on the winter beater. My black rescue project does not get driven winter time.
Last edited by Rodman (2018-01-01 12:17:03)
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L8
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Rodman wrote:
Supposedly, the new Rotella formulation is not good for our motors, when it warms up I’m going to start using Castrol or Mobil 0w40. Now that is cold I’m using Castrol syn blend 5w30 on the winter beater. My black rescue project does not get driven winter time.
What did they change?
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Talked with Shell about new Rotella T6 Formulation
Last edited by Rodman (2018-01-02 09:41:07)
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TheGrayAero wrote:
Rodman wrote:
Supposedly, the new Rotella formulation is not good for our motors, when it warms up I’m going to start using Castrol or Mobil 0w40. Now that is cold I’m using Castrol syn blend 5w30 on the winter beater. My black rescue project does not get driven winter time.
What did they change?
I second this question. What did you find from talking with them?
I used to run Castrol 5w30 but switched to Brotella 5w40 about 30k miles ago. I've had both in for analysis at Blackstone and with my oil changes between 3-5k I had fine results from both oils. My Brotella analysis was probably done two years ago or so I think. If something's changed since then and I don't mind switching back to the Castrol.
LOL and yea - this was quite the thread resurrection
Last edited by ikbrown (2018-01-02 11:57:49)
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So does someone just pick a random thread a few pages back and decide to comment on it? What makes someone comment on an old thread like this? lol
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I've stated this before, and concur with Titan. OCI is far more critical on the EJ20T than oil type.
When I first got my Aero (Feb. 2007 and with 31k miles), I immediately did an oil change to Mobil 1, and was expecting a 5-6k OCI going forward. By about 3k miles, the oil was not reading on the dipstick, and I pulled >3.5 of 4.5 quarts out of the car. I changed it, once again with Mobil 1, and found the same results at 3k miles. I tried Pennzoil Platinum at the next change, with slightly better results, but still a very concerning oil consumption figure. The car was burning it up at an alarming rate.
My 'aha' moment came with the next oil change - where I used whatever dino oil was on sale and discovered my oil consumption was halved, if not better, over 3k miles (which was my new OCI). From that point forward, I used ONLY dino oil in the car with the short interval. My consumption from 50k miles all the way to my last oil change at 149k remained at a steady 0.5-0.75 quarts over 3k miles. To me it was more important to have the crankcase as full as possible and that the oil in there was as new as possible, rather than using synthetic.
I never did a cost analysis of the savings over 120k miles, but every oil change cost between $15 and $25 with dino. With synthetic at the same OCI - which on my particular car was not possible - I'd be at $30 or better per OC, without the promised extended OCI that was expected with synthetic.
While this is not the Subaru recommendation (semi-synth every 3750 miles), or the general consensus of oil selection where synthetic is placed on a pedestal, it worked great for me. I never saw blue smoke out the tail pipe and it didn't leak a drop of oil on the day I sold it. YMMV
Last edited by krazykarguy (2018-01-02 12:12:58)
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I was actually trying to link the discussion thread from Nasioc but it was early morning and I was still in bed not wearing my glasses, my apologies for the cliff hanger. I did not speak to Shell, I did go back and read that thread that I had read for the first time perhaps 2 months ago. The main concern was the missing MS specification from the new formulated T6 containers. Turns out that more information is now known and the new formula is not very different from the old formula, the new T6 meets all the same standards as before. The exception been additional zinc if I remember correctly. Some people still believe they can continue using T6 on ej motors, others don’t think it is a good idea any more. I agree that oil change intervals and whatever type oil your particular motor likes is most important. My old aero that I sold to a friend is still running on its original drive train at close to 200,000 miles. Not only that but the last couple of months it has been running on a vf30 with supporting mods. The original turbo was still working properly when it came out to make way for the vf30, Amazingly. I did 3-3,500 hundred mile oil changes religiously since I got it second hand with 4,500 miles on the odometer. I set it up stage 2 as soon as I got it and it ran like that almost the entire time, the exception was when I decided to run it stage 1, that only lasted 2 weeks and I went back to stage 2. I used many different types of oil thru the years, at times basic dino, other times full synthetic. The last couple of years I ran Castrol synthetic 5w30 during cold months and Rotella T6 warmer months, it never used oil.
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I seem to have been lucky with Subarus: I've had at least two ej205/ej255 cars in my garage since 2002 and never had one that consumed a significant amount of oil. My current built mess of an engine does get topped off between changes but other than that none of them needed oil between 5k changes. Blackstone reports things are happy, 5k changes are very easy to remember; I've been using T6 for years but started trying Castrol Euro 0w40 for cold weather last year. OE filters bought in bulk, easypeasey.
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krazykarguy wrote:
I've stated this before, and concur with Titan. OCI is far more critical on the EJ20T than oil type.
When I first got my Aero (Feb. 2007 and with 31k miles), I immediately did an oil change to Mobil 1, and was expecting a 5-6k OCI going forward. By about 3k miles, the oil was not reading on the dipstick, and I pulled >3.5 of 4.5 quarts out of the car. I changed it, once again with Mobil 1, and found the same results at 3k miles. I tried Pennzoil Platinum at the next change, with slightly better results, but still a very concerning oil consumption figure. The car was burning it up at an alarming rate.
My 'aha' moment came with the next oil change - where I used whatever dino oil was on sale and discovered my oil consumption was halved, if not better, over 3k miles (which was my new OCI). From that point forward, I used ONLY dino oil in the car with the short interval. My consumption from 50k miles all the way to my last oil change at 149k remained at a steady 0.5-0.75 quarts over 3k miles. To me it was more important to have the crankcase as full as possible and that the oil in there was as new as possible, rather than using synthetic.
I never did a cost analysis of the savings over 120k miles, but every oil change cost between $15 and $25 with dino. With synthetic at the same OCI - which on my particular car was not possible - I'd be at $30 or better per OC, without the promised extended OCI that was expected with synthetic.
While this is not the Subaru recommendation (semi-synth every 3750 miles), or the general consensus of oil selection where synthetic is placed on a pedestal, it worked great for me. I never saw blue smoke out the tail pipe and it didn't leak a drop of oil on the day I sold it. YMMV
Interesting. I've been running Pennzoil Platinum for years now, changing every 5k miles, and I burn virtually no oil in that period, that I can measure at least. The dipstick certainly doesn't indicate any change over that time, and I also take note of the amount of oil that drains out vs. what I put in. It could be slightly less but I'm just 'measuring' by eyeball. It certainly isn't anywhere near half a quart. That said, I am on a different engine than you had and run a Grimmspeed AOS that returns oil vapor from the crankcase back into the system...one or both of those could be the difference I guess.
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I used the old formula, and have also been running the new rotella since it came out, haven't noticed one difference, car runs great. Since my car is now flex fuel, running predominantly e85, i do change my oil much more frequently, though. I've put over 100k on the car and over 50k on my ej207 running nothing but rotella t6, old and new, and i dont drive the car like a grandma either. Car pulls hard and sees 22psi daily. I dont see myself changing oils ever.
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I used Redline in my Linear and it did consume more oil than I liked, but I tolerated it. I was thinking a switch to mineral-based oil would change that but sold the car without giving that a try.
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I never did get around to replacing it on my own Aero - but I suspected that the PCV system (more than anything else) was causing the oil consumption issue. With all of the necessary equipment required to merge two cylinder heads as far apart as two cylinder heads with a shared crankshaft could be, I think that the opportunity for oil vapors to re-condense and then get burned on startup was a reality on my car. This is especially true for colder climates.
Whether or not synthetic oil was more affected by this theory, I do not know.
I did replace both valve cover gaskets during my ownership, as well as the seals on the PCV 'chambers' (which were the primary source of the valve cover gasket leaks). On both sides, the chambers were FILLED with a mixture of oil and condensed water due to the poor design. I occasionally noted this same mixture on the backside of the oil fill cap. Initially, I had feared that this was a failing head gasket, but there were never any of the other telltale signs of that failure.
Last edited by krazykarguy (2018-01-03 13:11:03)
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For what it's worth, IAG gives very specific instructions for care of their blocks after break in:
BREAK-IN OIL CHANGES
*Permissible Break-In Oils: Motul Break-In Oil (Preferred), Royal Purple Break-In, Brad Penn Break-In.
• Run Conventional 5w30 fluid and OEM or Purolator Pureone filter for first 50 miles, as outlined above.
• Change oil to break-in oil at 50 miles (as highlighted above), and replace oil filter and crush washer.*
• Change oil with break-in oil at 500 miles on your new engine, and replace oil filter and crush washer.
• Change oil with break-in oil at 1500 miles and replace oil filter and crush washer.
• Finally, change oil at 3000 to Motul 5w40 Synthetic and replace oil filter and crush washer.
• From this point forward, use Motul 5w40 Synthetic and change oil and filter every 2500-3000 miles.
• Make a habit of always checking your fluids every few hundred miles. Built engines can consume oil, though
most IAG street-clearance engines should use less than 1 quart of oil per 3000 mile oil change after break-in. If
your oil consumption deviates, please let us know.
(Emphasis added).
https://www.iagperformance.com/v/vspfil … ng-Doc.pdf
Of course there are differences between OEM and built blocks in terms of clearances, but as far as oil choice and interval, this makes my life pretty simple.
Last edited by countriccati (2018-01-05 15:32:17)
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12 years later I finally answered this poll. I ran T6 or Motul fammmmmm
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hammyt wrote:
years later I finally answered this poll.
Same.
Think we can start up the "Mobil 1 Oil Is Worse Than Water" debate again?
Last edited by theleveler (2018-02-02 18:02:52)
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I have used M1 0-W40 (changed every 3.5k miles )since I got the car with 39k miles. It’s now got 82k with a stage 2 protune since around 63k and it’s running extremely well. The one thing I found with these cars is that once you are on top of maintenance, they are pretty reliable.
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Idemitsu 5W-30
Idemistu also produced the OEM oil.
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